Day 5 - Kinlochleven to Fort William

Normal service has been resumed!

Woke up this morning to the sound of heavy rain, and realised we were finally going to have to deal with the real WHW experience, instead of the Disneyland style, 'wrapped in cotton wool' version we had benefited from up until then. The waterproofs were dug out from the bottom of the rucksack and the long process of dressing appropriately began.

Breakfast however, lifted our spirits. One word covers it: sumptuous!

The wind and driving rain made the 2 mile climb out of Kinlochleven hard work, but we could console ourselves that this was the last leg and each mile under our belt meant we were so much closer to our final destination. The weather finally settled down and the walking became quite pleasant allowing to settle into a steady pace. The route itself was uneventful, other than bumping into numerous other walkers we'd met previously along the way - all happy to be on their last day too.

A cloud covered Ben Nevis loomed large ahead of us and gave us an idea of how far we still had to go, and it wasn't long before we could see Fort William nestling in the glen below.

Once in the town we had to simply follow the thistle signs (although they were scarce) and walk along busy trunk roads and through soulless 60s shopping centres before finally stumbling across a rather underwhelming finish point where a statue of a walker rubbing his sore feet was the focal point for photos.

The weather however, had improved dramatically and the sun was bright and warm again.

Handshakes and photos all round, then it was off for a celebratory pint.

We are now recovering in the B&B, and are planning a bar supper and a few pints followed by the Manc derby on TV. With the prospect of a long lie tomorrow, this could get messy. Very messy!

The Top Performer of the Day award for today is, of course, split four ways!

An honourable mention  must go to Macs Adventure who took all the stress away from us with regard to organising the whole trip, and who truly excelled in their choice of accomodation - always close to the route, and always clean, welcoming and very accommodating. The baggage service worked like clockwork too! My only complaint would be that even after the last five days effort, I seem to have put on a little weight - more than likely due to the magnificent breakfasts we've been indulging in!

Thanks to my walking buddies for putting up with me for the last 5 days, and thanks to those of you that have taken the trouble to read the blog.

I'm off for a long hot shower!

WHW April 2012 Stats:

• Miles walked: 95
• Average miles walked per day: 19
• Most miles per day: 22 (Day 2)
• Least miles per day: 14 (Day 5)
• Blisters: 2 (that are being admitted to)
• Sunburnt baldy heads: 3
• Ruined pairs of Hush Puppies: 1
• Flasks of pansy fruit tea: 2
• Flasks of macho coffee: 3
• Beers sunk: classified
• Breakfasts pilfered for lunch: 2
• Sleepless nights due to snoring: 5 (shared evenly between Jubbo and Gibbo)
• Number of tired, but satisfied walkers: 4

Normal service has been resumed!

Dressed for the occasion

Not the best of days - not far to go though....

Fort William (and the end) in sight.

95 miles later.....

Flat oot!

Day 4 - Inveroran to Kinlochleven

Breakfast was a tense affair. It soon became clear that news had trickled through to the rest of the team regarding my self proclamation of top performer on yesterday's walk. The guys were not amused! A full enquiry was soon under way with the Jubbster playing the role of Lord Leveson whilst brandishing a knife dripping with butter and jam in my general direction, while I adopted the Rupert Murdoch persona, trying vainly to defend my outrageous actions.

A tidal wave of questions washed towards me over the poached eggs and grilled herring. 'Who is on the judging panel....?', 'What exactly did you do to merit the award....?' The interrogation was ceaseless.

As I listened to myself meekly explain that the award was merely the premise for a rather weak joke concerning the relative merits of fruit tea versus coffee, I knew I was fighting a losing battle. My three walking partners looked on incredulously as my voice trailed off....

Breakfast continued in silence, with the only sounds puncturing the tense atmosphere being the furious scraping of toast and the clatter of tea cups being slammed onto saucers just a little bit too hard.

Thankfully, the time to start walking finally came round, allowing me to escape the tension.

The mood lightened considerably as we discovered on embarking on Day 4 that the weather had improved yet again, providing us with cloudless blue skies and the merest of cool breezes.

Our route meandered up to Rannoch Moor where we were soon making good progress in glorious conditions. The cobbles on the old military road gave our feet a pounding, but this barely registered as we tried to take in all the stunning scenery in front and behind us. On the horizon we could see a dozen or more para-gliders as we traversed the moor, and made our way over the ridge into Glen Coe. From then on in, the scenery was truly breathtaking with Buachaille Etive Mor taking centre stage, sun glistening on it's snow covered peak as the para-gliders circled and swooped above our heads.

A close encounter with some friendly deer at the back of The Kinghouse Hotel kept spirits high as we made our way towards the Devil's Staircase with some trepidation. It proved to be a worthy opponent but we finally conquered it, having lunch at the top, before making our way at a leisurely pace down the long descent to Kinlochleven.

I have to say the accomodation booked for us on this trip has been superb. The B&B we're currently in is luxurious to the extreme. A bit too many porcelain dolls and bowls of pot pourri for my personal taste, but I can't remember staying in a cleaner of more welcoming establsihment. The breakfast - if it lives up to the expectation raised by our host - will be a joy to behold!

Last day tomorrow - a mere 14 miles to Fort William, and while the weather forecast isn't matching our last three glorious days, it is - all thing considered - not too bad at all!

Lastly, the top performer of the day. In a change from tradition, today's award will be split between two winners. Colin gets his reward as he was a MACHINE today and led from the front throughout, manfully striding forth with purpose. The Jubberoo merits a share as he remained at the back, like a mother hen ensuring that all her charges got home safely - a very re-assuring presence for me and Paul, who were merely passengers in the slipstream of their magnificence.

PS: The decision process for todays award was in no way influenced by events at breakfast this morning.

Top performer indeed!!

Blue skies over Rannoch Moor

Making our way towards Glencoe

Paul think he's hallucinating.....

Great way to spend a Sunday morning.

Deery me!

Deer grazing in front of Buachaille Etive Mor

 Walking towards Buachaille Etive Mor

Day 3 - Inverarnan to Inveroran

While we were delighted with yesterday's warm sunshine, we were simply stunned by today's weather which was even better. Setting off just after breakfast (no pilfering this time) and still feeling the heaviness in our legs from yesterday's exertions we were soon easing ourselves into a very leisurely pace, stopping at every opportunity for photos.

The scenery we encountered today was simply stunning, with the glorious weather showing the mountains at their very best - the bright blue skies contrasting starkly with the dusting of snow on the peaks.

Ben More and and Ben Dorain were just two of many highlights throughout the day.

Ben More was viewed firstly across Crianlarich, and then in all it's glory from the ruins of St Fillans Priory near Tyndrum.

We later skirted Ben Dorain on the approach to Bridge of Orchy towards the end of today's walking.

Both feature in the snaps at the bottom of this spiel with a string of walkers (in this case, Jubbo, Gibbo and Webbo - from back to front) making their way past the conical Ben Dorain, probably being THE iconic WHW photo that features in all the brochures.

Anyhoo, onto more mundane matters.....

Having suffered the sniggering of the previous two days, I upgraded the contents of my flask from fruit tea to far more macho coffee. This seemed to generate a grudging approval from my colleagues, and they even let me join in on their man-talk, talking about man-things. Even if I did have to occasionally nod and pretend to know what they were on about, I appreciated the inclusion.

Sticking with the mundane, I feel the need to explain the sleeping arrangements! We have - metaphorically speaking - put all our snoring eggs in one basket, with Messrs Jubb and Gibson sharing a room. This leads to some rather amusing jockeying for position as we finish up the last ale of the evening, as the two of them desperately attempt to be first in bed and asleep, therefore keeping the other awake all night.

I believe the score is currently 1-1.

However, Jubby assures me that a great cure for snoring is a walking boot thrown at the perpetrator's head from close quarters. Colin concurs.

Finally, top performer of the day (in that I kept up with Hush-Puppy boy) goes to yours truly - which proves that fruit tea is indeed for pansies, and coffee ROCKS!

A mere 19 miles tomorrow (Inverornan to Kinlochleven) across Rannoch Moor - piece of cake! (allegedly).

Full of beans!

Not so full of beans!

Ben More

Skirting Ben Dorain

Take your pick



Shhhh......

Day 2 - Balmaha to Inverarnan

The weather gods could not have been kinder to us today, as we woke to glorious blue skies, peppered with fluffy white clouds. My enthusiasm for the day ahead was only tempered by the slow realisation that the greatly improved weather would mean the Jubbster would wear his shorts! Sadly, I was proved correct. Not sure what was more blinding, the sunshine or his white legs.

Breakfast was a chaotic affair with Webbo resorting to subterfuge in order to secure a cold sausage sandwich, and some purloined yoghurts for his lunch. That lad does like a bargain! You can take the boy out of Yorkshire.....well, you know the rest.

The table next to us was occupied by and American couple, who insisted in raving about their 'wunnerful' holiday in 'Scatland', wherever that is. I believe Mr Trump has built a golf course there however.

Anyway, Day 2's walking commenced later than hoped and with 22 miles ahead of us we were hoping to make good time on the flat stretches along the shores of Loch Lomond - we could not have been more wrong! Despite the glorious weather and the remarkably beautiful scenery, the going was as tough as I've ever experienced. Constant, rocky, short shap inclines and declines made for thigh burning, slow going.

Top performer of the day was Paul who again raced ahead of the rest of us slackers. This was despite (or probably due to) his insistence on wearing Hush Puppies rather than proper walking shoes like real men wear. Anyhow, our incredulity that he would even consider such a choice was well and truly parked, as he skipped from rock to rock like a mountain goat, before disappearing into the distance.

With yesterday's 19 miles still weighing heavy in the legs, I truly believed we would never, EVER get to Beinglas Farm, where we were staying. After a NINE HOUR slog it finally hoved into view, and the lager and the venison casserole in the bar, that followed a hot shower in the room could not have been more welcome. Paul of course, was first home, and sat drumming his fingers on the table for a good 15 minutes waiting on me appearing over the hill (it was my round apparently).

Tomorrow consists of another 22 miles, and I'm freaking out at the thought of it!

Time for bed!

Morning breaks over Loch Lomond

Good grief!

The bonnie, bonnie banks...

The views get better and better.....

North end of Loch Lomond

Way marker looking South

Hungry native

Day 1 - Milngavie to Balmaha

WHW April 2012

Main protagonists:

• Myself
• Colin Gibson
• Paul Webster
• Mark Jubb

Traditionally, your first act in embarking on the West Highland Way is to have you photo taken at the start point, so Jubbo, Gibbo, Webbo and ....er.... Gus-oh... duly obliged (see below).

After the formalities we set off in fine fettle, ready for the challenge ahead. The weather turned out to be a bit of a mixed bag, but much better the the dire forecasts that Mark and Paul were dramatically tossing around in the pub the night before.

Squally showers in the morning saw us through to Drymen, but after then, the weather improved dramatically - as did the scenery.

As last night's jalapeño peppers worked their way through Colin's system, he was consigned to the rear of the group for the sale of all mankind. Mark's mobile phone was persistent in it's need for attention - much to the annoyance of the rest of the troop, and I'll be surprised if it's gets beyond Loch Lomond without being smashed to smithereens.

However, mobile phones aside we settled into a steady pace and were soon treated with some fantastic scenery as Loch Lomond opened up in front of us.

Lunch was taken in the shelter of the forests North of Drymen, with The Jubberoo becoming more 'at one with nature' than the rest of us (see very relaxed photo below). My flask of fruit tea seemed to cause much merriment, but all of my fellow walkers were most definitely eyeing the steaming brew with some envy.

Oak Tree Inn in Balmaha tonight - and very nice it is too! Log fire and beer on the menu I reckon.

A 22 miler in front of us tomorrow, mostly flat as we hug the shore of the loch - and the forecast is good. Mind you, after today, that means zip!

Gus-oh, Gibbo, Webbo and Jubbo

Looking towards Drymen

Heading towards Dumgoyne

At one with nature

Loch Lomond

Moe, Larry and Curly

Weather improves